Portraits

In Marseille, between sunshine and sea spray, cheese production is taking root right in the heart of the city. Audrey Emery opens the doors to this urban dairy, where cheesemaking expertise is reclaiming its rightful place.

At first glance, La Centrale Agricole gives no indication that life is thriving everywhere inside. A concrete building, large glass doors, plastic curtains, service elevators, and a maze of corridors where footsteps echo. Yet this is where some twenty urban agriculture projects are being incubated, from coffee roasting and fish farming to growing microgreens and raising insects. That morning, we are meeting Virginie Boivin. In a message, the president of La Centrale and head grower at Champignons Big Bloc told us: it’s a hectic time. September is a busy month because the City of Montréal is organizing Ferme en ville, a series of events centered on urban agriculture.