When cheese production is established in the heart of the city

Once upon a time... The Laiterie Marseillaise?

We opened in January 2020. The idea came to us while I was making a career change: I was working with Pierre Coulon, who was in the midst of setting up and opening the Laiterie de Paris, and that inspired us. My business partner and I loved the idea of bringing cheese production back into the heart of the city, first because we were both great cheese lovers, but also to reconnect local residents with this expertise. We work exclusively with local milk from farms located within an 80-kilometer radius of Marseille, while respecting the seasonal cycles of goats and sheep. We have also chosen to pay our farmers the prices they set themselves, to ensure fairer wages. 

Why bet on urban cheese?

To show people and help them understand how cheese is made, that it takes time, and that it remains a product that comes at a cost. And you understand that when you can see it being made! A lot of raw materials are needed because milk contains a lot of water. For example, making a 40 kg wheel of Comté requires 400 liters of milk! It takes time and aging, and it needs to be cared for in the cellar. That is also why it is an expensive product. It also gives us an opportunity to discuss and raise awareness about the issues surrounding raw milk. This expertise is increasingly being lost, so it is historically important to talk about its benefits and its flavor profile. It also allows us to work with nearby farms to reduce transportation. We send the sterilized milk churns back so as not to waste them. And we are even looking at ways to make use of the whey! We are thrilled when restaurant owners come to collect it. Chef Sarah Chougnet-Strudel from the restaurant Regain used it to make caramel! 

Which cheeses are made 100% in-house?

At the heart of our production are whole-milk cheeses and yogurts, kept as minimally processed as possible to ensure their quality and texture. Our cheeses include lactic-set cheeses (Saint-Marcellin, Saint-Félicien, etc.), Pélardon, feta, halloumi, raclette, Munster, and blue cheese! Everything is aged on site in separate rooms. For our desserts, we work with local producers: our chocolate cream is made with chocolate from Marseille-based chocolatier La Baleine à Cabosse, our rice pudding with organic Camargue rice, and the verbena in our verbena yogurt comes from a local herbalist, Père Blaise. We also make a passion-fruit-flavored yogurt using lemon marigold! All to minimize our carbon footprint as much as possible. The same goes for our vanilla and tonka bean yogurt, made with sweet vernal grass that grows in the Jura, or our pineapple sage yogurt... Our jams are made with fruit from around the Mediterranean. We supply around twenty establishments, many of which have the Écotable label. 

What are your favorite restaurants here? 

Ouréa! A favorite creative bistronomic spot serving local, seasonal fruit and vegetables, with a wonderful team and a great atmosphere! 

Your favorite food shop? 

Maison Payany! Marie was trained by Mr. and Mrs. Payany, the original owners. People in Marseille say she makes pâté en croûte even better than they did—that says it all! 

And a favorite local product? 

Maison Journot's homemade orgeat syrup. It's a Tunisian grocery store that also makes very, very good fricassé sandwiches, but its orgeat syrup, made with apricot kernels, is truly incredible! It's also sold at L'Idéal grocery store. I discovered it thanks to Julia Sammut, who founded L'Idéal. 

What is your go-to product for making a foolproof recipe?

Quite simply, our blue cheese with an Italian-style salad featuring radicchio. It's just fantastic! Add walnuts, pears (if they're still in season), and Italian mostarda jelly (a slightly spicy jelly with pieces of pear) from L'Idéal grocery store.