JJ Hings: the taste of childhood

Once upon a time JJ Hings? 

« I’m basically a pastry chef but I’ve always loved ice cream. In fact I’ve even always made it, whether at home or elsewhere. It’s my favorite thing in the world, I can eat it every day, and I have since I was little. It’s something very common among New Zealanders! I started hosting sort of ice-cream nights at home for my friends, I had even bought a machine. I knew I wanted to open something but I was still looking for my project. When I arrived at Ten Belles to work there, I saw they had a space they didn’t use much. I suggested doing a pop-up where I would sell my ice creams and I did it for 5 months to see if people would buy them. It was a success, I opened JJ Hings right after in 2024!» 

By the way, why JJ Hings? 

“My grandparents were market gardeners and my grand-uncle also ran a fruit and vegetable shop selling produce from family gardens. It was my great-grandfather, Jack Hings, who started the business; he too was a market gardener, and they all grew up working in the garden. I spent a lot of time with my grandparents during my childhood: they taught me everything about produce, fruits, vegetables, cultivation, seasonality, etc. They had a considerable influence on my life. And they both had a passion for ice cream (laughs). So, I took back my great-grandfather's company logo, but it bears the name of my grandmother Jean and my grand-uncle Jackson.” 

On the day's board of flavors to choose from, you can see written: Nectarine Yellow, Maïs Doux, Are You Cerise, Dame Nellie, Jeanne du jardin, or Mugi-Cot. 

JJ Hings' originality ranges from the names you give the flavors to the combinations. How do you come up with these ideas? 

“Really everywhere! Sometimes I get inspired by a person, how I would imagine them as an ice cream. Sometimes I eat something and I immediately want to make one. And sometimes it's with a scent, I smell something and I turn it into a flavor. I work a lot with the seasons so, of course, it also comes from seeing what is available at that time, among fruits, flowers, herbs.”

And I imagine that pastry helps with that? 

“Yes, especially since, originally, I trained in cooking! On the savory side. And then I moved into pastry. It helps enormously: the number of times I imagine a dessert and end up turning it into ice cream. And my husband, Guillaume Kern, is also a pastry chef. We have never lost that aspect — we just put it forward in our ice creams now.” 

On the other side of the room, crates of plump peaches are piled on top of one another. Next to them, scarlet red cherries wait patiently. An employee is busy turning the cones behind the workshop windows. The movements are guessed, but above all, they are felt, heard. The cone batter pouring onto the hot waffle iron, the smell of warm biscuit that was already wafting outside permeates everything. 

How careful are you about sourcing? First of all, you have a fantastic homemade cone. 

"Yes, it's made with spelt flour and brown butter... When it comes to sourcing, we pay attention to the raw ingredients, starting with the milk. I love Geyser milk, it's very rich and gives an incredible flavor. All the fruits come from France, with exceptions at times like mango. I work directly with the orchards; it's really important for us to source from small producers when possible, to get the best products."

What are your favorite creations? 

"That's too hard (laughs). There are two that I absolutely loved, including the corn. It's my favorite vegetable and as ice cream it was incredible. The season will be back soon; I'm really looking forward to it. And also the strawberry—we had received some from Brittany. Plain or strawberry and milk. It's simple but I love it."

What does an ice cream maker's day look like? 

« When we arrive we start preparing the ice creams, we order the fruit to make the sorbets, the compotes, the jams that we'll incorporate into the ice creams. Then on Wednesday we start churning all the ice creams! We work from Tuesday to Sunday, and we open the shop on Thursday. All the ice creams we make are matured for a minimum of 24 hours. It's better for the fat, it's better for the flavor. And we start the fresh cones on Thursday. We'll make them again every day until Sunday! We also make all the cookies in-house for the ice cream sandwiches that we dip in chocolate. »

Do you think Paris is a good ice cream scene? What are your favorites? 

« When I arrived in France in 2015, I couldn't really find what I was looking for. But now yes! I have so many that I love! There's of course Folderol, Café Izaka as well. Di Giù too, an Italian pastry shop right next to the canal. »

And what about restaurants you like? 

« Oobatz, which I tried just last night. I'm not much of a pizza person, but there I could really eat three in a row, and the wine is really good. »

The interview ends. I come back at 2pm to get an ice cream at the shop's opening. A line is already forming. The ice cream is good, rich, flavorful and regressive. It tastes like childhood.