Shwi

Just a few steps from the Canal Saint-Martin, the terraces are already spilling onto the sidewalks and hurried cyclists replace car horns with the sounds of bells. A smell of embers and spices cuts through the flow of traffic. At Shwi, the farrouj meshwi takes center stage, a Lebanese-style grilled chicken. Slathered in a vivid red marinade, it's set to cook flat, trapped between two grills above the embers. It browns slowly before our eyes before arriving at the tables still smoking, the skin crispy and scented with perfect umami. The place is small, lively, designed as a counter for eating on the go with a few tables to linger at. Here, no fuss over ordering: you take a quarter, a half or a whole chicken to share, accompanied by potatoes, pickles, salad and a sauce with a generously Mediterranean spirit. The toum, garlic cream white as snow, smooth and creamy, spreads on the bread, clings to pieces of poultry and runs through the meal like a common thread. Plates end up empty and oil-slicked fingers are blotted on crumpled napkins. For those in a hurry, the sandwich brings together grilled chicken, sauce and crunchy vegetables in a Lebanese flatbread; for others, the bowl plays the card of a complete meal. Behind this fire-dedicated spot is the Kubri team, already known for bringing Beirut to the 11th arrondissement. A straightforward, warm and no-nonsense cuisine, where the embers act as the soundtrack.