Gay Odin

Isodoro Odin, a Piedmontese chocolatier, moved to Naples in 1888. He fell in love with this city and its temperamental volcano and dreamed of opening a shop on Via Chiaia. He later married Onorina Gay, herself descended from a family of chocolatiers. An obvious match, the couple founded their brand in 1894. They went on to open several more shops in Naples and beyond. After a 20-year closure, the little vintage wooden jewel box reopened in 2025. It showcases the literal and culinary marriage of its two founders: assorted chocolates, the iconic rectangular wafers stamped Gay-Odin, and trompe-l'œil walnuts filled with praline (which delighted the artists and intellectuals of the time). And then there are the shop's overlooked treats, which are almost more worthwhile than the chocolates themselves: the gelato! It is addictive from the very first bite (especially the salted pistachio flavor—bold, umami, and creamy). A plunge into historic Naples, to be savored without delay amid the chaos of the nearby alleyways.